By Jim Boyce | Michael Ohlsson of Dada has been at work for months on an organic and biodynamic wine bar in the hutongs and his vision is slowly coming into focus. While the bar, Fu, is technically, kind of, sort of open, Ohlsson is adamant it will take another month to get things into proper shape and thus I offered to limit this post to just one sentence about the place and to provide directions so vague they are just as likely to take the reader to Mars. But our exchanges yesterday about the wines got me excited about the venture so I am upping the sentence count to three.
One, Fu is sourcing wines from 10 distributors—”I want a good variety of choice”, Ohlsson says—and will start with 40 wines by the bottle, most of them under rmb500, and eight by the glass. Two, that lineup includes Chinese label Puchang from Xinjiang, which has a portfolio that includes a Muscat, a Saperavi and a Cabernet Sauvignon and which Ohlsson describes as “a real curiosity.” Three, as mentioned, it will take some time to get up to speed, so consider this one of those so-called soft openings, as soft as a “where is it?” whisper that glides along Nanluguoxiang and brings back the answer “something’er” hutong.
By the way, the attached photo is from Hedonist wines, carried in Beijing by Australian Natural, as I don’t yet have any of Fu. I will soon, though. In about a month.